It was one of those days—scorching hot, borderline melting, yet I felt a sudden, irresistible urge to break free. So, I hopped on a train and headed to Atami.
This wasn’t a trip for sightseeing checklists or keeping up with others. This was a journey of pure, unadulterated selfishness.
Amidst the shimmering summer heat, I decided to embrace the sun and enjoy Atami entirely on my own terms.
Whether it’s finding a cool breeze by the ocean or ducking into a retro cafe for an iced coffee, there’s a special kind of luxury in traveling solo during a Japanese summer. Join me as I recount my sun-soaked day of freedom in one of Japan’s most iconic seaside retreats!
Day 1
Stepping Into the Heat – Start at Heiwa-dori Shopping Street
The moment I stepped off the Shinkansen, Atami greeted me with a dazzling blue sky and a piercing wave of summer heat!
But before diving into the adventure, a pro-tip for any traveler: Go hands-free.
I headed straight to the coin lockers at LUSCA Atami (the shopping mall connected to the station). Being ‘weightless’ is the first step to true freedom!
Fully unburdened, I made my way to the Atami Heiwa-dori Shopping Street, located right in front of the station.
This is a paradise for foodies! It’s a nostalgic lane lined with retro signs and tempting steam rising from shops selling local delicacies.
The atmosphere is electric, and the smells are irresistible.
Instagram vs. Reality – A Survival Story!
In my mind, I had it all planned out: strolling gracefully through the streets, holding a cute dessert, and snapping the perfect selfie. It was going to be a sparkling, ‘aesthetic’ start to my trip.
But reality had other plans.
With every single step, the temperature seemed to skyrocket. That glorious, cloudless blue sky?
It was a beautiful gift from nature—one that felt a little too ‘intense’ for me at that moment. My dreams of a glamorous photo shoot quickly evaporated under the scorching sun.
Instead of hunting for the most Instagrammable snack, I found myself instinctively drawn toward the nearest shopping mall like a moth to a flame.
Priority number one: Survival via Air Conditioning. My stylish outfit was ready for Atami, but my body was screaming for cold air!
My trip didn’t start with a ‘sparkle’—it started with a desperate search for the nearest AC vent.
Sanctuary of Beauty: MOA Museum of Art
After recharging my spirit (and my body temperature!) with some much-needed air conditioning at the mall, I hopped on a bus to the main event of my trip: the MOA Museum of Art.
This is more than just a museum—it’s a sanctuary of beauty perched high on a hill overlooking the ocean.
As I stepped inside, I was greeted by a series of incredibly long, glowing escalators.
The transition from the bustling, humid outside world to this realm of silent, artistic elegance was breathtaking.
It felt like I was slowly ascending into a different dimension of peace and aesthetics.
An Art Major’s Perspective: The Invisible Magic of MOA
To be honest, I’ve been on the path of art since high school and through university—I’m a self-proclaimed art enthusiast. So, as someone who has visited countless galleries, what took my breath away at the MOA Museum of Art wasn’t just the masterpieces themselves. It was the glass.
The display technology here is on an entirely different level:
- Zero Reflections: No annoying glare from the ceiling lights, and no reflection of myself staring back.
- Invisible Clarity: The glass is so transparent, you genuinely forget it’s even there.
- Intimate Distance: You feel so close to the artwork that you can almost feel the ‘breath’ of the artist from centuries ago.
It wasn’t just ‘looking’ at art; it was an immersive experience where I felt myself melting into the world of the scrolls and ceramics. Beyond the physical cool of the air conditioning, there was a dignified, crisp tension in the air that filled my soul. This is the ultimate luxury for any art lover.
The Main Event: Gourmet Delights by a Master Pastry Chef
After nourishing my soul with art, it was time for the Main Event of my journey: a visit to La Pâtisserie du Musée par Toshi Yoroizuka, located right inside the museum.
First: A Croque-Monsieur to Die For
Before diving into the sweets, my stomach was demanding real food. I couldn’t resist ordering the Croque-Monsieur.
- The Scent: The irresistible aroma of toasted, melting cheese.
- The Flavor: A rich, velvety Béchamel sauce that coated every bite.
It’s one of my all-time favorite dishes, and honestly? Sitting there alone in that ultra-stylish interior, I didn’t care about looking elegant.
I devoured it in record speed! 😂 Every bite felt like a warm hug for my hungry soul.
My “Small Victory”: Overcoming the Dessert Challenge
Now, it was time for the grand finale: the ‘Cassis’ Mousse Cake.
To be honest, I’ve struggled with a secret dilemma for years. Even though I love sweets, my body often hits a wall after just a few bites.
Finishing a single slice of cake has always been a surprisingly high hurdle for me. ‘What if I can’t finish this one either?’ I felt a familiar wave of anxiety as I picked up my spoon.
I took a breath and tried the first bite. ‘…It’s delicious!’ 🎊
The sharp, refreshing tartness of the cassis exploded on my tongue. It wasn’t just sweet; it was vibrant. That zesty acidity felt like it was gently escorting my appetite, making each bite easier than the last.
Near the end, my pace slowed down a bit, but I kept cheering myself on in my head. And then… I did it! I finished the entire slice.
It might seem like a small thing to some, but for me, it was a massive personal victory. This ‘success’ made the sparkling Atami scenery outside look even more brilliant.
Braving the Local Scene: A Hidden Gem in Atami’s Nightlife
As night fell, I ventured back into the streets. I was worried that everything would be closed early, but Atami’s nightlife greeted me with a warm, welcoming energy—even for a solo traveler.
I decided to be brave and skip the flashy tourist spots. Instead, I headed to Washokudokoro Kobayashi, a cozy, traditional eatery that looked like a place only locals would know.
I’ll admit, my heart was racing a bit as I pushed aside the noren (entrance curtain), but the moment I stepped inside, I knew I had hit the jackpot.
The Ultimate Comfort Food: Seafood Bowl & Crab Miso Soup
The sashimi was incredible—glistening, plump, and fresher than anything I’d seen before. But the real star?
The Crab Miso Soup. The rich, umami-packed broth felt like it was soaking into every fiber of my being. It was pure bliss.
- The Staff: Incredibly friendly and kind, making me feel right at home.
- The Vibe: Relaxed and cozy. Perfect for a solo diner to enjoy a meal without feeling self-conscious.
Walking back to my hotel, belly full and heart happy, the cool night breeze of Atami felt like a gentle pat on the back.
My first day ended in the most luxurious way possible—with authentic flavors and a sense of quiet accomplishment.
Day 2
A Golden Morning: Hot Springs with an Ocean View
If there’s one thing you must do in Atami, it’s this: Wake up early for an ocean-view hot spring soak.
The hotel I stayed at offered an overwhelming, panoramic view of the sea right from the large communal bath (Dai-yokujo). While I can’t show you my own photos of the bath (cameras are strictly forbidden for privacy, of course!).
While the hot springs are lovely and atmospheric at night, the early morning is magical. As the sun begins to rise, the water starts to sparkle, and the sky changes colors every minute. Soaking in the warm minerals while gazing out at the horizon is the ultimate detox for a busy mind.
Just listening to the sound of the waves and feeling the steam against the crisp morning air… it was pure bliss.
I stepped out of the bath feeling recharged and ready to conquer Day 2. Little did I know, a ‘grueling adventure’ was waiting for me just around the corner!
Hatsushima Island – A Natural Sauna!
Despite the forecast predicting even more brutal heat than the day before, I couldn’t resist. I was in Atami, after all! I mustered up my courage and hopped on a ferry bound for Hatsushima, a small resort island just a 30-minute ride away.
As the boat docked and I stepped onto the island, I expected a refreshing ocean breeze. Instead, I was hit by a wall of heat so intense it felt like someone was pointing a high-powered hair dryer directly at my entire body.
I thought my parasol would protect me. Oh, how naive I was… 🫠
While it shielded me from the direct sunlight, there was no escaping the heat attacking from below and the sides.
It wasn’t an island getaway; it was a 360-degree natural sauna!
Entering a Dream: My Own Private Island World
Despite the heat, I forced my heavy feet to start exploring the island. What I found was a world so quiet and beautiful it took my breath away.
- The rhythmic sound of the waves
- An empty, sun-drenched boardwalk
- The dazzling reflection of light on the water
The only things I could hear were the wind and the sound of my own footsteps. It felt exactly like I had stepped into a scene from a video game—an immersive, dreamlike world where I was the only player. For a few moments, I was the sole owner of this entire ocean view.
Entering a Dream: My Own Private Island World
However, the physical limit came quickly. ‘If I stay here any longer, I’m literally going to melt…!’
With a heavy heart but a firm resolve, I decided to cut my island visit short. Even though my stay was brief, that quiet, solitary moment by the sea became the most luxurious memory of my trip.
Sometimes, knowing when to retreat is the mark of a true adventurer!
The True Finale: From Retro Onsen to Apex Legends!
As I said goodbye to Atami and settled into my Shinkansen seat with bags of souvenirs, my heart began to race again. There was one ‘True Finale’ waiting for me back toward Osaka.
Solo Mission: The Apex Legends Collaboration Cafe!
I headed straight to the limited-time Apex Legends collaboration cafe! Talk about a 180-degree turn—from the nostalgic, retro streets of Atami to the high-tech, frantic world of my favorite battle royale game.
Stepping inside, I realized I was in the middle of a ‘squad-based’ environment. Everywhere I looked, there were groups of friends laughing and cheering. I was the only solo player in the room! 🤭
But did I care? Not a bit. After surviving the brutal heat of Atami and navigating a remote island alone, I had all the ‘Shield Battery’ (confidence) I needed.
Surrounded by my favorite ‘Legends’ and themed decor, being solo felt like a tactical advantage. I was there for the love of the game, and nothing could dampen my spirits!
A Happy Accident: The Double Nessie Raid!
“I sat down and ordered a pizza and a dessert. That’s when a delightful little surprise happened. The staff came over and explained that they had run out of a certain topping for the pizza… so, as a quick fix, they decided to decorate my pizza with an extra ‘Nessie’ meant for the desserts!
A sudden, unexpected ‘Double Nessie Raid’ on my table! 🦖🦖
Looking at those two adorable green creatures, all the exhaustion from my travels melted away instantly.
Full Hearts, Full Stomachs
After filling up on ‘Nessie Pizza,’ I headed to the merch corner. There they were—my beloved Legends, Caustic and Crypto. Seeing their life-sized panels was the perfect way to wrap up my mission.
From the deep blue sea of Atami to the digital frontiers of the Outlands.
Heading exactly where I wanted to go and ending the day surrounded by the things I love most. What started as a ‘melting hot’ survival trip had somehow transformed into a perfectly ‘cool’ two-day escape, filled with the kind of freedom only a solo journey can provide.”
Final Thoughts
Signing Off from My Atami Adventure
And just like that, my 2-day, 1-night solo journey to Atami comes to a close.
To everyone who read my story until the very end: Thank you so much! I hope this log serves as a helpful guide (and perhaps a fair warning about the heat! 🥵) for anyone planning to visit Atami during the peak of summer. Remember, traveling is about more than just checking off sights—it’s about the freedom to find your own ‘cool’ even in the middle of a heatwave.
Whether you’re soaking in an ocean-view onsen or being raided by a ‘Double Nessie’ at a cafe, may your next adventure be just as colorful as mine.
Stay hydrated, stay brave, and most importantly, stay free! 🌊🎮✨